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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.